Navigo Trips - Provins


The €73 dent in your pocket at the beginning of each month is somewhat painful, but a Navigo is a Parisian essential. It can take you much further than an Oyster card in England, and you will use it almost everyday travelling to and from work, or between Arrondisements. I've used mine to get to the airport, IKEA, Versailles, Auvers-Sur-Oise and this month it took me to the medieval town of Provins.


Getting there was simple. We took a train from Gare de L’Est that took no more than an hour and forty minutes, then started walking towards the tower which was clearly visible from the train station. There is a tourist office, but we decided to simply have a wander round. The Voulzie river runs through the town, winding between the houses, shops and along the street beside you. Some of the houses even have little bridges stretching over the water and leading to their doors, which paired with the Wisteria that seems to be absolutely thriving this side of Paris, makes for a very picturesque stroll into the heart of Provins. The paths soon get steeper as you draw closer to the sights at the top. They are not too treacherous, but be prepared for a bit of a work out if you're bringing a pushchair or will be carrying a small child.




Our first stop of the day was ‘La Ronde des Abeilles’, an adorable shop owned by Carla Renault, a beekeeper who sells the produce of her hives. According to local history, in 1240 the Count of Champagne returned to Provins from a trip to Jeruselam with a Rose bush. Since then, thanks to intense cultivation the flowers have dominated the gardens of the town. The Roses are believed to contain medicinal properties, particularly when distilled or preserved. Carla let us try her Rose Honey, and while we weren’t suddenly glowing with vitality it did taste very nice. Her shelves are fit to burst with soaps, lotions, confectionery, candles as well as bottles of Honey Beer and Rose Lemonade.



We encountered several other shops on our walk, a few of which didn’t open until after 13:00 so we weren’t able to visit. We were disappointed to miss out on the Chocolatier, but our spirits were lifted by a friendly Frenchman who gave us a free, mini wine tasting. At the back of one of the many gift shops is a hoard of medieval, aperitif wines. We got to sample three types of ‘Hypocras des Pays d’Oc’, and came away with a bottle of red.


After stepping out of the shop wondering how we’d stumbled into this land of bees, roses and ended up with a €10 bottle of wine, we encountered a square with a carousel lined with restaurants and cafes. There were lots of families with children dressed as knights tucking into crepes and ice creams. I would have loved to spend the day here as a child, especially if I got to explore the Tour César, which you can climb for less than €5. At the top of the Tower there are impressive views and it is just around the corner from the square where you can grab something to eat after conquering all the stairs. Food and drink seem to be a lot cheaper than in Paris and it didn't cost us anything to get here thanks to our Navigos. We are no closer to becoming Medieval experts after our day in Provins, but we met a whole bunch of friendly, interesting people dedicated to preserving the history of the town along the way. It was worth the train ride to get out of the City, and to breathe some fresh air somewhere new.

Written by Mabel Wattam








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